Let me tell you about one of the most authentic, slightly chaotic, utterly memorable ways to experience Shekhawati—taking the local train from Sikar to Mahansar, then staying at a haveli that feels like it's been waiting just for you.
Why This Journey Matters
Most tourists rent cars with drivers and cruise through Shekhawati in air-conditioned comfort, window up, music playing, insulated from the real India happening outside.
You? You're about to do it differently.
The local train isn't faster. It isn't more comfortable. But it's real—the way regular people actually move through this region. And Mahansar, the tiny village at the end of that train line, might just have the most stunning frescoes in all of Shekhawati.
Part One: Sikar Railway Station
Getting to Sikar
Sikar is the largest town in the region and well-connected by train from Jaipur (about 2.5—3 hours), Delhi (6—7 hours), and other major cities. It's your entry point into deeper Shekhawati.
The Station Vibe
Sikar Junction isn't some quaint heritage station—it's a working Indian railway hub with all the beautiful chaos that implies. Chai wallahs yelling "chai chai chai garam chai!", vendors selling samosas and kachoris, families with mountains of luggage, stray dogs sleeping on platforms, announcements crackling through old speakers in Hindi.
Pro Tips Before You Board
- Arrive 30 minutes early—Indian trains can leave on time (occasionally) or be 2 hours late (frequently)
- Use the bathroom at the station if it's clean-ish; the train toilet is... an experience
- Buy snacks and water from platform vendors—cheaper than on the train
- Grab a cutting chai (small glass of milky tea) for ₹10. It's part of the ritual.
The Train: Sikar to Mahansar
The Route
The Sikar-Churu passenger train stops at several small stations, including Mahansar. It's not a direct express—it's a local, meaning it stops everywhere, sometimes for unclear reasons, and runs on a schedule that's more like a gentle suggestion.
Train type: Unreserved passenger train | Frequency: 2—3 trains daily | Journey time: 1.5—2 hours | Cost: ₹20—30 (~$0.25—0.40)
The Experience
This isn't the Maharaja Express. This is a second-class unreserved compartment on a passenger train, and it's glorious. The train is old—blue-painted metal, wooden benches, fans that might work, windows without glass (just bars). When it moves, wind rushes through. When it stops, heat settles in.
You'll meet village women in colorful saris, students heading to coaching classes, farmers, maybe a sadhu in orange robes. Kids will stare with unabashed curiosity. Someone's radio will play Bollywood songs. Vendors will walk through yelling "CHAAAAAAI".
Out the window: fields, scrubland, villages, kids waving at the train, women carrying water pots on their heads, men on motorcycles racing the train at level crossings.
Arriving at Mahansar Station
Mahansar Railway Station is tiny. A single platform, a small building, maybe a tea stall, and that's it. When you get off and the train leaves, suddenly it's quiet. After Sikar's chaos, the silence is striking.
Getting to Kesar Vilas
The station is about 1—2 km from the village. Options:
- Walk: Follow the road toward the village, ask "Kesar Vilas kahan hai?" (where is Kesar Vilas?)
- Auto-rickshaw: Maybe 1—2 at the station; negotiate ₹50—100
- Call ahead: Inform Kesar Vilas of your train arrival for pickup
Kesar Vilas: Your Haveli Home
Kesar Vilas is a heritage haveli-turned-guesthouse in Mahansar. Not a fancy hotel chain—it's family-run and retains the character of an old Marwari merchant's home.
First Impressions
You walk through massive wooden doors into a courtyard, and suddenly you're in another century. Frescoed walls, traditional architecture, that quiet you only get in old buildings. It's more like staying at your wealthy great-uncle's ancestral home—authentic, a bit worn, full of character.
Real Talk About Comfort
This isn't a five-star hotel. Plumbing is old. Hot water might be limited to certain hours. AC might be noisy. Wi-Fi probably doesn't exist. But the ceilings might have 150-year-old paintings of gods and goddesses. Windows might overlook a peacock-filled courtyard. Trade-offs, you know?
What Makes It Special
- Location: In Mahansar—one of Shekhawati's artistically richest villages that barely any tourists visit
- Authenticity: Just a haveli with all the quirks and charm that implies
- The hosts: Family-run means personal attention and arranged meals
- The quiet: After the train journey, Mahansar's silence is a gift
What to Do in Mahansar
The Sone Chandi ki Dukan Haveli
The crown jewel. SO ornately decorated that people nicknamed it the "gold and silver shop." Every surface—walls, ceilings, pillars—covered in intricate frescoes and gold leaf work. Find the caretaker, offer a tip (₹50—100), and he'll unlock it. The level of detail is overwhelming—this is why you came to Mahansar.
Raghunath Temple
The ceiling that looks like it's dripping gold. Walk in, look up, and just stare. Gods, goddesses, animals, geometric patterns all flowing together. The priest is usually around and might explain the artwork. Tip generously—he's preserving something extraordinary on basically no budget.
The Village Itself
Walk the lanes. Chat with locals. Watch daily life. There's something powerful about being in a place where tourism hasn't changed the rhythm of life.
Practical Information
Best time: October—March | Stay: 1—2 nights | Book ahead: At least a week
- Pack: Light, modest clothing, walking shoes, flashlight, cash, sunscreen, hat, water bottle, medications, medications, patience and humor
- Language: Hindi and Marwari spoken; learn "Namaste," "Shukriya," "Kahan hai?" etc.
- Money: Withdraw cash in Sikar—Mahansar ATMs are unreliable
- Safety: Very safe; just use common sense
Why Do This?
Because Shekhawati is dying. Not literally, but every year more havelis collapse and more frescoes fade. By taking that local train, by staying at a family-run haveli, by walking those lanes and tipping those caretakers, you're saying: "This matters."
And you're experiencing India the way most tourists never will—not as a comfortable observer, but as a temporary participant in daily life.
When you're sitting in Kesar Vilas's courtyard at sunset, drinking chai, surrounded by painted walls, listening to evening prayers echo across the village—you'll know you made the right choice.
Go. Take the train. Stay at Kesar Vilas. This is the Shekhawati experience most people miss.